Anton Klink photo gallery (concerts, sports, models, beauty pageants, clubs & parties).
![[...] @ Clubtallinn, September 2005](05.09.03_DeLaSoul/thumbs/4IMG_8845_filtered.jpg "[...] @ Clubtallinn, September 2005"){kind=small}
Welcome!
If you want to license or purchase any of the pictures in the gallery, please drop me an e-mail at anton.klink@gmail.com.
Tips: Press [F11] on your keyboard for a better view of the page. Use the search feature to find galleries and pictures of specific events, parties, clubs and people. Hover your mouse over thumbnails and buttons to see photo comments and tips. To navigate the pictures, click on the left or right edge of a picture to move to the next or previous picture. You can also use arrow keys on your keyboard to navigate the pictures. Thanks for taking a look and enjoy your stay!
Equipment (updated Jan 17, 2007):
A lot of people have been asking what equipment I use to take my pictures, so here is a quick overview. Camera: 8.2 Mpix Canon EOS 350D (Digital Rebel XT) - small, light, fast, has excellent picture quality with very little noise even at ISO 1600. Main club and flash pic lens: Canon EF-S 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 - I love it, 99% of my flash and clubpictures are taken with the kit lens, small and light (good in clubs), focuses fast and I find the quality very good, especially for the money. Ultra low-light medium range portrait and action lens: Canon F1.8 50mm lens - Canon's cheapest and most popular stand-alone is still my favourite, 50mm is perfect for portraits and it is amazing what F1.8 can do in low light situations. Ultra low-light tele lens: Canon 85mm F1.8 - amazing sharpness, excellent for shooting low-light action or portraits from a bit further away when 50mm is not enough. Ultra low-light wide angle portrait and action lens: Sigma 30mm F1.4 - my ultimate low-light lens for when all other low-light lenses fail. 30mm allows lower minimum shutter speeds than 50mm without introducing camera shake and F1.4 allows higher shutter speeds than F1.8 (I shoot all my low-lights hand-held, so with the 30mm @ F1.4 I can get sharp pics even in the 1/3" shutter range). Also good for tight space or wide angle low-lights when 50mm is too narrow. Ultra wide angle lens: Tokina 12-24mm F4 - fantastic for architecture and tight spaces, unfortunately no replacement for kit lens in clubs (too much distortion for people pics, too heavy and not enough zoom). Outdoor zoom lens: Sigma 55-200mm F4-5.6 - small, light, sharp, excellent lens. Primary flash: Canon Speedlite 580EX - usually on full auto, also used for getting focus-aid without firing the flash (420EX on 350D couldn't do it), sometimes also as master to a slave 420EX. Secondary flash: Canon Speedlite 420EX - was fine as full-auto primary flash (switched to 580EX to get non-flash focus-aid and master-slave ability), thus now used mostly as slave to 580EX. Off camera shoe cord - very helpful in creating variety in flash pictures. For portable storage I have two 512 80x Lexar cards and a PD70X HyperDrive (CompactDrive) with a 60GB HDD. The PD70X is extremely spartan, but very fast (transfers 512 MB in 1.20 minutes).
Workflow: I shoot 100% JPEG (I've tried RAW but didn't like it, I may try again someday). For JPEG I use "Large" resolution (more pixels - better for post-processing) and "Medium" quality (quality difference compared to "Fine" is miniscule). To see what settings I use (ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc), look at EXIF data below the pictures. For flash pics I use one custom setting to boost in-camera contrast and saturation, for low-light and/or onstage pics I use another to take it to minimum. In-camera sharpening is always at max. For some mild post processing I use Photoshop to adjust levels, contrast, saturation and shadows. For noise removal and mild sharpening I use Noiseware Professional with a sharpening filter.
